Introduction – Why Sulawesi?
If you’re thinking about traveling to Sulawesi, prepare yourself for a journey that is truly an adventure—beautiful, fascinating, and at times a little challenging. For me, this was already my fourth trip to Indonesia, and what I love most is that every island of this country feels entirely different. People often say Indonesia is more than just Bali, and that is more than true. For me, Bali is a lovely place to unwind at the end of a trip or rest before flying back to Europe—but the real adventure lies far beyond it.
Sulawesi is one of those places.
It’s huge—actually the second-largest island in Indonesia—and it feels wild, remote, and wonderfully untouched. It is divided into three major regions: North, Central, and South Sulawesi. Each one has its own airport, which is important to remember because distances here are long and transportation options are limited.
- North Sulawesi: Manado Airport
- Central Sulawesi: Palu (main airport) + Luwuk (smaller airport)
- South Sulawesi: Makassar (the island’s biggest airport)
Traveling from one region to another can take ages, so for this trip—about ten days in total—we decided to focus only on Central Sulawesi. Our route:
Palu → Togian Islands → Luwuk → Banggai Islands → back to Luwuk → Bali.
Getting to Palu was already an adventure: Delhi → Bangkok → Jakarta → Palu. By the time we finally reached the Togian Islands, two and a half days had passed—including two nights without a proper bed.
But that’s Sulawesi: nothing is straightforward, and everything takes time. Yet every moment is worth it.
Arrival in Palu and the Journey to Ampana
When we landed in Palu, we honestly had no idea where to go next. That’s usually how we travel—we arrive somewhere and “figure it out.” Thankfully, a friendly couple took us under their wing and guided us to the shared shuttles heading to Ampana—the starting point for ferry trips to the Togian Islands.
Two main shuttles run daily:
- one in the morning
- one at 5 p.m.
We missed the morning one, so we hopped onto the 5 p.m. shuttle. The ride takes 8 to 10 hours, costs around 200,000 IDR (roughly 10 euros), and comes with one guaranteed feature: very loud Indonesian trance-style pop music. It’s funny for the first hour, then… well, it becomes part of the experience.
We reached Ampana late at night, exhausted. Since the ferry only leaves the next morning, the shuttle driver kindly offered us a place to rest at his home. Moments like these are what make travel in Indonesia so special.
Normally, you can take a speedboat to the Togian Islands (around 8 euros), or the cheaper public ferry (around 6 euros). Unfortunately, the speedboat was cancelled that day, so we took the 10 a.m. ferry to Malenge Island.
Which island you decide to go onto is up to your personal preferences – we decided on Malenge Island based on recommendations by a friend, however, other islands might be more suitable if you want to e.g., go diving more.
Malenge Island – Cliff Resort, Beaches & Jellyfish Lake
We spent three nights at the Cliff Resort, which offered a beautiful view over the ocean. The owner is from the Czech Republic, which was perfectly fine, but next time I would prefer staying somewhere Indonesian-run—supporting the local community just feels better.
Right next door is the Sandy Bay Resort, located right by the stunning Sandy Beach, close to Sera Beach.
Sandy Beach & Sera Beach
At Sandy Beach, I went snorkeling and saw two sea turtles. Some people spot reef sharks there too, though I wasn’t that lucky. Sera Beach is very beautiful and I can recommend strongly visiting: soft white sand and clear, turquoise water.
Half-Day Boat Trip: Jellyfish Lake & Karina Beach
This was one of the biggest highlights of our time in the Togians.
- Jellyfish Lake: A lake that separated from the ocean hundreds of years ago, leaving jellyfish with no predators. Over time, they lost their sting completely. Swimming among hundreds of harmless jellyfish was a surreal, peaceful experience
- Karina Beach: Another great beach with crystal-clear water
Do not forget to stop by the Dr. Ating Foundation and leave a small donation – it is a short 5-10 min walk from the beaches and you will find a beautiful garden, curated by Dr. Ating, who takes care of animals on the island. It really reminded me of the house of Pippi Longstocking.
We spent two full days exploring the island and felt that three nights were the perfect amount of time before moving on.
Leaving the Togian Islands – The Private Speedboat to Bunta
Because we were on a tight schedule and wanted to continue to Luwuk and then the Banggai Islands, we needed a faster route. Public ferries take a long time, so we ended up arranging a private speedboat. At first, people tried to charge us 2,5 million IDR, but by contacting locals via WhatsApp (numbers are often found on Google Maps), we managed to negotiate a better price.
Still, the two-hour ride to Bunta Port cost us around 100 euros total—more expensive than public transport, but essential for our timeline.
From Bunta, heading to Luwuk makes far more sense than returning to Ampana, as the way is much shorter.
- Bunta → Luwuk: 3 hours
- Ampana → Luwuk: 6 hours
We also got lucky again: we met an Indian woman heading the same way, so we shared the ride and paid only 150,000 IDR each—around 8 euros.
We spent one night in Luwuk before continuing to the Banggai Islands the next day.
The Banggai Islands – Pulau Peleng & Leme Leme
The Banggai Islands are a large archipelago with many beautiful islands, each offering beaches, lakes, and remote villages. We chose Pulau Peleng, where we planned to visit a turquoise lake and some pristine beaches. Things didn’t go quite as expected (more on that later), but the area is absolutely worth visiting.
The local ferry from Luwuk departs every day at 2 p.m. and takes about two hours to reach Leme Leme on Pulau Peleng.
I highly recommend taking this ferry—it’s not just transportation; it’s an experience.
In both Luwuk and the Banggai Islands, we felt like celebrities. People constantly asked for photos, especially children. At one point, I even ended up giving signatures because the kids were so excited. It was overwhelming and heartwarming at the same time—a little glimpse of what being famous must feel like.
Before getting into what to do and where to stay on the islands, I want to give a special shoutout to Luwuk:
Luwuk – An Underrated City Worth a Stop
Luwuk really surprised me. Most travelers seem to treat it as a transit point, but it deserves far more attention.
Where to Stay
The Swiss-Belinn Luwuk is a good place if you want to rest and enjoy a bit of luxury:
- breakfast included
- clean rooms
- a pool
- all for around 18 euros per person per night
Honestly, one of the best price-to-comfort stays in Sulawesi.
Where to Eat
Only a short ride from the hotel is Luwuk Seafood KM5, a popular restaurant serving fresh fish, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. We ordered a huge spread plus mango shakes, and the three of us paid less than 20 euros total.
Coffee Culture
Surprisingly, Luwuk has some great cafés—something you won’t find easily in other parts of Sulawesi.
Both have proper espresso machines and a modern vibe. Instead of tourists, you’ll see young Indonesians, students, or digital nomads.
Waterfalls Near Luwuk
The area around Luwuk is filled with lush waterfalls, perfect for a day trip. One great example is the Kamumu Waterfall. You can rent a scooter or hire a driver—both very easy and affordable.
City Vibes
Luwuk has interesting shops, juice stands, local street life, and even karaoke bars if you want a night out. It’s a vibrant, friendly, and surprising city—big enough to explore, small enough to feel relaxed.
Leme Leme – Quiet, Remote, and Authentic
After our two-hour ferry ride, we stepped into a different world.
Leme Leme is wonderfully quiet—almost no tourists, slow-paced life, and a sense of untouched authenticity.
Where to Stay
There are only two homestays in Leme Leme Harbour. We simply walked up and got a room.
We stayed at:
Other nice options elsewhere on the island include:
Both looked lovely and I wish we had tried them.
Where to Eat
We mostly ate at our homestay: mie goreng, eggs, fresh fish, and endless coffee.
But the real star is:
Warung Polioan Mama Afika (I think it is that one but you will realize once you are in front of it if that is right):
A tiny warung run by the sweetest elderly lady on the main street. She’ll cook you anything she can—mie goreng, chicken, soup—and treat you like family.
What to Do in Leme Leme
Two main attractions make the island so special:
1. Pantai Poganda (Poganda Beach)
A beautiful beach with peaceful vibes, perfect for swimming and relaxing.
2. Danau Paisu Pok Luk Panteneng Lagoon + Kawalu Bay
This place is a dream: blue lagoon water, jungle surroundings, and an almost magical atmosphere.
You can visit both in one day by scooter—or stay overnight near one of them for a slower experience.
The Scooter Accident (Nothing Serious, Just a Reminder)
We had only one day to explore, since we needed to fly to Bali the next morning. So we rented a scooter and set off.
And then, one of my friends fell with the scooter.
Nothing serious—but enough to require a visit to the Leme Leme hospital (about 5 km from the harbour). The locals were incredibly kind and helped us through everything.
But it also unfortunately meant: No Paisu Pok, no lagoon, no beach.
Just a full day of hospitals, conversations with locals, and our friend trying to recover.
The roads are not in the best condition yet, so go through the scooter driv ing basics again before making your way.
Leaving the Banggai Islands
The next morning, we caught the 10 a.m. ferry back to Luwuk. We spent our final day relaxing—coffee, juice, a slow walk through town—and then flew off to Bali.
Final Thoughts – Sulawesi Is Not Like the Rest of Indonesia
Sulawesi is very special.
It is beautiful, raw, exciting, and full of surprises.
But it’s not the Indonesia of smooth roads and beach clubs. It’s the Indonesia of long drives, slow ferries, unpredictable schedules, and genuine encounters.
It’s perfect for people who are:
- resilient
- flexible
- comfortable with basic travel
- hungry for adventure
- curious about local life
- excited by the unknown
If that’s you, Sulawesi will reward you a hundred times over.
Find more photos and impressions on my Instagram: @lovemarafee
Find more travel itineraries here.
