In April 2022, I had a few days to spare and was thinking to myself: Where could I go for a quick, but not rushed trip? And the answer was: Tunisia! For just 240 Euros I flew from Cologne, Germany to Tunis, a country I have not heard about too much besides that my uncle used to live there and that the political situation has been unstable. I can tell you: I never ever regretted this very spontaneous decision. So here come my insights on a perfect 4 day travel itinerary for Tunisia:
I have to admit that I was sceptical before the trip. I visited the country during Ramadan and was asking myself whether it would be a good idea or if I would be super limited. Looking back, I am so glad that I went during Ramadan! If you have never experienced Ramadan in a Muslim country, I can assure you: It is a unique experience! While there is a lot closed during the day, most restaurants besides the touristy ones, you get the full experience at night! Tunis was FULL OF LIFE! Around 7 pm, the streets were filled with happy people, drinking, eating and smoking as much as the can. Music was completing the atmosphere and I absolutely loved it.
So here is my 4 day itinerary for Tunisia
TUNIS – SIDI BOU SAID – HAMMAMET – TUNIS/KAIROUAN
Day 1: Tunis
I arrived in Tunis and had a prearranged driver take me to my hostel/hotel. However, I recommend just taking a taxi at the airport, as it usually is cheaper if they turn on the taximeter (definitely tell them to!!). Then it should not set you back more than 10-12 Euros.
After leaving my stuff in the hostel and having asked for a breakfast (yes, that is still possible during ramadan, but avoid eating on the street, behind closed doors it is not a problem though, especially if the locals recognise that you are not Muslim) I started walking around the centre of Tunis (Medina). It is not very big, so just download an offline map on Google Maps in advance and wander around!
In the Medina, you will find many little shops and possibilities to buy souvenirs and spices. I personally enjoyed the Souks more than in Marokko, because there were way less tourists around. However, I also got pursued a lot by men, who offered me to show me cool stores around and of course, also their own shops. They tend to be very persistent, especially because in my case, many speak a bit of German too. So just be persistent too and tell everyone to leave you alone. Of course you can still ask people for recommendations, but I would rather choose to do that in you hotel or shops and restaurants that you proactively choose!
A couple of highlights in the Medina of Tunis:
- Mezquita Zitouna: The central mosque of the Medina is beautiful and you can even enter as a non-muslim. However, Bring something to cover your hair!
- Cafe du Souk (See photo attached) – I am not a 100% sure this is the right name of the place, however you get the best view over the city (you can also go to Panorama Bar, this one is particularly nice in the evening, when everybody celebrates Ramadan, smoking Hookah). Enter the shop and on the left hand side you will find stairs, leading all the way up to the rooftop terrace. You can visit for free, usually there a not many people up there so you even have all the view to yourself. I just bought postcards afterwards, however, I did not feel any pressure in buying anything.
- Museums: Tourbet El Bey
In the evening, when sun set and people were allowed to eat again, streets were filled with music, hookas, a LOT of food and happy people. I did not feel unsafe any minute, not even walking around alone at night. There was so much energy, so much joy and eating out during Ramadan, I promise you, provides you the best food possible. Its a feast.
Day 2: Sidi Bou Said
On my second day, I went to Sidi Bou Said and Cartago. It is easily doable within a day and you can go by train, where each ticket is like 1,5-3 Euro on average.
Cartago consists of old roman ruins, which are located directly next to the ocean and consist of old roman baths, an amphi theatre and an old harbour. Inform yourself about the exact locations in advance, as the train station that you will get off at seems like it is in the middle of nowhere, especially, because there are few tourists around and the area is, nowadays, just a normal living area of Tunisians. You only have to pay entrance once, I bought my ticket at the Roman baths, the ticket then lets you to enter all the other monuments.
After having visited the Roman ruins, I took the train and continued my trip to Sidi Bou Said. What it reminded me most of was probably Santorini. Beautiful white houses, blue roofs and not too many tourists (and cheap souvenirs). Again, as I visited during Ramadan, most places were closed, so I only had the option to go to the most touristy cafe, called Cafe de Delices. The views were amazing, however, prices extremely high. I would recommend to just wander around the city, and if its warm, check out the beach.
After coming back, I already made my way to Hammamet (see route details in transport sector)
Day 3: Hammamet and Tunis
Originally, I planned on staying two more days in Hammamet, to chill and read and enjoy the sun. However, trying out different hotels in Hammamet I had to leave immediately. Why? Because there were literally only tourists, looking for 24-hour-service in all-inclusive resorts. Thats just not my kind of vibe, I felt like I was missing out on Tunisian culture, food and people.
So I had breakfast in the morning and left. Back to Tunis, where I spent the afternoon chilling and walking around the rest of the city’s centre.
Day 4: Kairouan
I am still so happy, that I made this decision and started a day trip to Kairouan. It can easily be done within a day with local transportation, however, it is also possible to stay a night. Arriving in the morning, I started to walk around a bit. Kairouan is actually the fourth holiest city of the Islam and I was the only tourist there, people even started taking pictures with me. I did not feel unsafe, however, I avoided walking around alone in streets where there weren’t any other people.
What can you do in Kairouan? Easy, see a lot of mosques and (when not visiting during Ramadan) have good local food!
Things I recommend when walking around:
- Zaouia of Sidi Ali El Gharini
- Bir Barrouta
- Mosque of Three Doors
- Bab Tunisia
- Gran Mezquita de Kairouan
- Dar Hassine Allani -> Here, for a little entrance fee (it is also a hotel, but there weren’t any people when I was visiting), it is possible to be shown around and have a traditional tea, coffee and biscuits on the very nice rooftop terrace (also during Ramadan).
- Basins of Aghlabides
- Mezquita del Barbero
Kairouan also is great for souvenir shopping, probably the cheapest out of the places I have been.
After my little day trip I went back to Tunis, Waited a bit in the hotel and went by taxi back to the airport to fly back to Frankfurt, Germany.
Food
Food in Tunisia can be great.
Here are a few recommendations:
Tunis: 1. Sfaxien Restaurant (honestly, I am not sure, whether this is the right translation haha, but the place was GREAT, good prices and the waiter even took me in the kitchen with him so I could choose what I wanted to eat – my absolute favourite experience in Tunis during the trip) – See the picture attached, however, it is located in the Rue de Caire, almost at the crossing of Av. Habib Bourguiba.
2. Restaurant The Ben Arous
3. Dar Essafa – Great food, however, they tried to rip me off, because everyone was telling me different prices for the Ramadan menu. Just ask one of the locals (if any of them speaks English haha or you French), what they are paying and pay the same.
Accommodation
Tunis:
Dar Ya: Nice low budget hostel with breakfast included, private rooms for like 30 Euros, however, shared bathrooms only, staff is super friendly
Golf Royal Hotel: Nice low budget hotel, good service, not located in the Medina, but closer to the train station to Sidi Bou Said, very nice personnel
Kairouan:
Dar Essafa: Very cute hotel, a bit higher priced (70-100 Euro), but very pretty with beautiful rooftop terrace and very nice personnel, very traditional Dar
Transport
Minibuses / local transport in Tunisia are called louages. So if you want to ask any local about where to go, always speak of louages directly.
Tunis – Kairouan: Find the minibuses in Kairouan where you were dropped off, on Google Maps its called Station Louage Moncef Bey – for the way back, just go where you have been dropped off – the ticket always costs just between 1 to 4 Euros, so its easy and I did not encounter any difficulties in communicating with the drivers
Tunis-Hammamet: Find the minibuses from Station Louage Bab Aliwa – for the way back, you can mostly just wait on the street somewhere but I recommend asking you hotel/the place where you stay
Solo travel
I can definitely recommend to solo travel in Tunisia. I never felt threatened or very unsafe, however, there were situations I did not feel super comfortable in, which is why I avoided passing through empty small streets alone and only walked through busy streets at night.
Besides that, I think the most important tip is to walk and behave confidently and not let yourself be irritated by people approaching you. The Arabian culture is, at least speaking from my experiences, very open and can sometimes be a bit intimidating. Follow you instincts, mostly, people are just curious but gently and confidently show your limits.
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